How Chinese caviar company N25 fought stereotypes to star at top global restaurants

**N25 Caviar has shattered Western stereotypes about Chinese luxury food, now served in top Michelin-starred restaurants across 20 countries.** Founder Hermes Gehnen, born to a Chinese mother and German father, launched the company in 2017 when sourcing sturgeon roe from China was met with skepticism. A decade later, N25 supplies elite venues like Da Terra and The Ledbury in London, and three-Michelin-star chefs have even created bespoke releases. Gehnen’s journey reflects a broader shift: China now produces world-class ingredients that were previously overlooked.</p><p class="summary-lead">**Gehnen’s childhood in Beijing and his biology studies in Germany gave him a dual perspective that proved crucial.** He explains that China has native sturgeon species, but caviar was never part of its culinary tradition—only the meat was used. The farms are located on the Tibetan plateau along the 25th parallel north, using enclosed aquaculture fed by spring water to ensure fatty, high-quality roe. This terroir, combined with meticulous processing in Munich, creates a product that chefs find surprisingly distinct.</p><p class="summary-lead">**The company’s control over every stage—from farm selection to ageing—is its core competitive advantage.** Unlike most caviar producers who repackage bulk tins, N25 oversees R&D, curing methods, and maturation for months. Only the top 10% of roe earns the N25 label, and the ageing process varies by sturgeon species to develop rich nuttiness and umami. This vertical integration allows N25 to create dramatically different styles from the same raw roe.</p><p class="summary-lead">**In 2023, Gehnen launched Umai, a more affordable brand that unexpectedly found its niche with Michelin-starred chefs rather than nightclubs.** Umai offers two flavor profiles—“Heritage” and “Modern”—with a stronger, more rustic taste ideal for canapés and sauces. Gehnen is now developing a third brand from the same roe varieties, set to launch this year. He notes that the processing alone can transform the caviar’s style, proving that Chinese-origin ingredients can rival any global luxury product.</p><p class="summary-lead">**The broader implication is that China’s ingredient diversity remains underexplored by the West.** Gehnen urges open-mindedness, pointing out that China’s provinces offer incredible quality and variety, much like Europe’s best regions. The success of N25 Caviar signals a growing acceptance of Chinese luxury goods in fine dining. As Gehnen puts it, people should not be surprised that China makes caviar—they had the sturgeon all along.