From the air, the first sign of Greenland is the appearance of a constellation of white swirls and smudges far below, as open sea gives way to Arctic ice. Inside our 76-seat Icelandair plane, passengers are peering out of the windows. Most are men over 40, many toting backpacks with waist straps and wearing lace-up boots and caps emblazoned with words like “Hunt Club.” There are a lot of American accents. Next to me sits an affable man from Bonney Lake, Washington, who drinks a can of Monster Energy while explaining that he only stopped snowboarding deep into his 70s.
Key Takeaways
- When I track him down, Brandt describes how he refused to sign Stanley’s petition after picking the American up in central Nuuk: “I got angry, because I’m very, very against Trump buying Greenland,” Brandt says, adding that the incident made him worry about war coming to his home.
- “He was holding on to that as an opportunity to make some money,” Wilson says.
- “There’s a strange dynamic which has certainly surprised Greenlanders, that you also may be more vulnerable when you are more accessible,” says Carina Ren, head of the Arctic research center at Denmark’s Aalborg University.
- The wait time could be as long as five hours, says Irma Larsen, who I find smoking outside the terminal in the cold rain.
Insights & Analysis
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